CATEGORIES
12 & under
Beginner: v0 - v2
Intermediate: v3 - v4
Advanced: v5 - v6
Badass: v7 - v8
Open: v8 +
When choosing a category we suggest selecting the category that best reflects your upper-average of climbing ability. Regardless of category, all competitors may attempt any level of problem. Competitors will be bumped into higher categories if their score is significantly higher than is typical for the upper end of that category.
QUALIFYING ROUND - scoring
Redpoint format;
Top 5 boulder problems.
The Heist qualifying round consists of 80(ish) boulder problems, each of which is assigned a point value. Twelve of the problems are marked "Junior"; women competing in the adult categories (Beginner, Intermediate, Advanced, Badass or Open) will not receive points for completing Junior-level boulder problems. However, Junior competitors may receive points for both Junior and Adult boulders.
Each competitor can climb as many problems as she likes during the qualifying round but will only receive points for her top 5 problems. On her scorecard, she should indicate which problems she completed and whether she climbed the problem in 1, 2, or 3+ attempts. Each attempt will remove 10 points from the full point value of the problem until 3+ attempts have been made. For example, completing a 600 point problem in 1 attempt is worth 600 points; completing the same problem in 2 attempts is worth 590 points; completing the same problem in 3, 4, 5 or 12 attempts is worth 580 points. A competitor's qualifying score = the sum of the point values for her top 5 problems.
Prizes will be awarded to the top 3 competitors in each category.
FINALS - scoring
Modified World Cup (onsight) format;
2 boulder problems & 1 sport route.
The top 6 competitors from the Open category will compete in Finals, which will consist of 2 boulder problems and a sport route and will follow a World Cup format. Finals will start at 7 with introductions of the athletes and a 5 min route preview.
Running order will be determined by qualifying score (6th, 5th, 4th, 3rd, 2nd, 1st). All competitors will climb Boulder Problem #1; each will have 5 minutes to climb the problem in as many attempts as she has time for. If a competitor finishes the problem in less than 5 minutes, the next competitor will begin immediately. At the end of 5 minutes, any climber that is still climbing will be called off the wall. After all competitors have climbed, Boulder Problem #2 will begin in the same manner.
After all athletes have completed their both boulder problems, a Bouldering Ranking will be determined based upon (in order):
- Number of Problems Topped
- Total Points (roughly, each hand hold = 1 point)
- number of flashes
- total attempts to Top(s)
- total attempts to High point(s)
This Bouldering Ranking will be posted for the crowd to see.
Each of the 6 competitors will then have one attempt to climb the sport route. There will be a 5 minute time limit per competitor. Running order will be based on qualifying score (6th, 5th, 4th, 3rd, 2nd, then 1st) and a Sport Ranking will be determined based upon number of points earned, where control of each handhold = 1 point. If the judge does not award control, .5 will be given for usable surface, .2 for positive movement. Athletes will also receive .01 for each successful clip and may not skip clips. The Sport Ranking will also be posted for the crowd to see.
Total Score in Finals = Bouldering Ranking x Sport Ranking
If there is a tie in either ranking, we will add (1/number of people tied) to the multiplier.
For example,
if Competitor X ranks 2nd in Bouldering and 3rd in Sport, her total score is 2 x 3 = 6;
if Competitor Y ranks 5th in Bouldering and is tied with one other competitor for 1st in Sport, her total score is 5 x 1.5 = 7.5. In this case, Competitor X would beat Competitor Y.
Ties in the multiplied score will be broken first by total points earned (in Bouldering and Sport combined), then (if there is still a tie) by qualifying score.